Portfolio
Headshots Boudoir Personal Brand
More
Guides Investment Guided Posing About Book a Session
Home  /  Guides  /  A Plain-English Photography Glossary
Knowledge

A plain-English photography glossary.

Photographers use a private vocabulary and then wonder why nobody asks questions. None of it is difficult once somebody says it in ordinary words. Here are the terms you are most likely to hear before, during and after a portrait sitting, alphabetically, defined so you can use them rather than nod at them.

By Annie Watson · Naples, Florida · Updated September 2026
Man with gray hair in a blue plaid suit and yellow tie, white backdrop, photographed by Annie Watson in her Naples studio
The Short Answer

Most photography vocabulary describes four things: how much light reaches the sensor, how large and how directional that light is, how much of the picture is sharp, and what happens to the image afterward. Aperture, exposure and ISO belong to the first. Key light, softbox and hard light belong to the second. Focal length and depth of field belong to the third. RAW, retouching, sRGB and resolution belong to the fourth.

You do not need any of it to book a portrait. It is useful for one reason: it lets you describe what you want, and ask for what you need afterward, without guessing.

Ambient light to color space, A through C.

The first stretch covers light you did not put there, the openings and shapes that control it, and the words for what happens behind you.

  • Ambient light. The light already in a room before anyone adds anything. Indoors it usually comes from overhead fittings, which is rarely kind to a face.
  • Aperture. The adjustable opening inside a lens, written as an f-number. A wide aperture such as f/2 lets in more light and keeps less of the scene sharp; a narrow one such as f/11 does the opposite.
  • Aspect ratio. The shape of an image, written as width against height: 1:1 is square, 4:5 upright, 16:9 wide. Changing the ratio always means cutting something away.
  • Backdrop. The surface behind you in a studio, usually paper or fabric in a plain color. Its only job is to keep attention on your face, which is why the good ones are dull to look at.
  • Bokeh. The character of the out-of-focus areas in a picture, not merely the fact that they are blurred. Smooth, round bokeh recedes politely; harsh bokeh has hard edges that pull the eye off your face.
  • Broad light. Lighting in which the side of your face turned toward the camera is the lit side. It widens a face, which is occasionally what you want.
  • Catchlight. The small reflection of the light source visible in the eye. It is what makes eyes look alive, and its absence is why a technically correct portrait can still feel dead.
  • Color space. The defined range of colors a file is meant to be read in, such as sRGB for screens. A file opened in the wrong space shows the wrong colors, which is covered in the difference between sRGB and CMYK.

Depth of field to gamut, D through G.

These are the words for sharpness, for softening light, and for the reason a print and a screen never quite agree.

  • Depth of field. How much of the picture, from front to back, is acceptably sharp. Shallow depth of field lets the background fall away and keeps attention on the eyes.
  • Diffusion. Any material that spreads light across a wider area, such as fabric stretched in front of a lamp. It makes the source effectively larger, which softens the edge of every shadow.
  • DPI. Dots per inch, a printing measure of how densely ink is laid onto paper. 300 dpi is the long-standing convention for photographic printing.
  • Exposure. How much light reaches the sensor, set by aperture and shutter speed, with ISO deciding how bright an image is made from it. Correct exposure means the tones you care about, which in a portrait means skin, land where you want them.
  • Fill light. A softer secondary light that lifts the shadow side of a face so it keeps detail. It is not there to remove the shadow, only to decide how deep it goes.
  • Focal length. The lens measurement in millimeters that decides how wide or narrow the view is. Longer focal lengths let the camera stand further back, which keeps a face in its own proportions.
  • Gamut. The range of colors a device can actually produce. A screen's gamut and a printing press's gamut do not match, which is the root of most print disappointments.

Hard light to modifier, H through M.

The middle of the alphabet holds most of the lighting vocabulary, which is the part of a session worth having an opinion about.

  • Hard light. Light from a small source, giving sharp-edged shadows and bright highlights. Dramatic, and unforgiving of skin texture.
  • High key. A deliberately bright, low-contrast look on a light background with shallow shadows. Clean and current, and a common choice for corporate portraits.
  • ISO. The sensitivity setting of the sensor. Raising it lets you work in less light, at the cost of more noise in the image.
  • JPEG. The common finished image format, opened by everything and compressed to keep the file small. Every time one is edited and saved again it gives up a little quality.
  • Kelvin. The scale used to describe the color of light, running from warm orange at low numbers to cool blue at high ones. It is what white balance gets set against.
  • Key light. The main light on your face, the one deciding the direction and shape of the shadows. Every other light in the room is described by its relationship to this one.
  • Low key. A darker, higher-contrast look on a dark background, where the shadow is doing most of the work. The named looks are compared in studio lighting styles explained.
  • Megapixel. A unit describing how many pixels a camera records. It decides how large you can print, and it is a poor measure of how good a photograph is.
  • Modifier. Anything placed in front of a light to change its size, softness or direction: a softbox, an umbrella, a reflector, a grid.

Natural light to rim light, N through R.

This stretch covers the light nobody controls, the format your photographs begin life in, and the work done after the sitting.

  • Natural light. Daylight, usually through a window. Large and soft under an overcast sky, small and hard in direct sun, and never the same twice, which is the whole argument in natural light against studio light.
  • Noise. The speckled texture that appears when a sensor is pushed in low light. Software reduces it, though heavy reduction takes skin texture away along with it.
  • Prime lens. A lens with one fixed focal length and no zoom. Usually sharper and better in low light, and it makes the photographer move rather than the lens.
  • RAW. The camera's unprocessed capture, much closer to an exposed negative than to a photograph. It holds the sensor's data with no decisions applied and has to be developed before anybody sees it.
  • Reflector. A pale panel used to bounce light back into the shadow side of a face. The simplest way to soften a shadow without introducing a second light.
  • Resolution. The pixel dimensions of an image, which decide how large it can be reproduced before it goes soft. How much you need for a given job is settled in how much resolution you need.
  • Retouching. The finishing work on a delivered photograph, done by hand: color, tone and small corrections made so the picture still looks like you.
  • Rim light. A light set behind and to one side, drawing a bright edge along hair or shoulder so you separate cleanly from the background.

Short light to working distance, S through Z.

The last stretch is the vocabulary of the studio itself, plus the two terms that decide most of what a portrait looks like.

  • Short light. Lighting in which the side of the face turned away from the camera is the lit side. It narrows a face and is the more common choice in portraiture.
  • Softbox. An enclosure that turns a small light into a large, even one. The bigger the box relative to you, the softer the shadows.
  • sRGB. The standard color space for screens and the web. Save a web image in anything else and browsers may show its colors incorrectly.
  • Strobe. A studio flash firing a short burst of light. It freezes movement and overpowers the room's own light, which is what makes a studio result repeatable from one frame to the next.
  • Tethering. Connecting a camera to a computer so the frames appear on a larger screen as they are made. Some photographers work this way and some do not, so it is a working preference rather than a standard to expect.
  • White balance. The setting that tells the camera what color the light is, so that white things come out white. Wrong white balance is why skin sometimes goes orange or faintly blue.
  • Working distance. How far the camera stands from you while it works. It is the quiet decision behind whether a face keeps its own proportions.

The words people mix up.

A handful of these get used loosely, including by photographers, and the confusion causes real problems at the point where somebody has to send a file or approve a picture.

  • DPI is not resolution. Resolution is how many pixels an image has; dpi is how densely they get printed. The same image can be printed small and dense or large and coarse.
  • Bokeh is not blur. Blur is the fact of being out of focus. Bokeh is the quality of that blur, which is why two lenses can blur a background by the same amount and still look completely different.
  • A filter is not retouching. A filter applies one rule to the whole picture. Retouching by hand means a person deciding, area by area, what to leave alone.
  • Megapixels are not quality. They set the largest useful print size and nothing else. Light, lens and direction decide whether a picture is any good.
  • RAW does not mean unedited in the sense of honest. It means undeveloped, and it looks flat and dull because no decisions have been made yet.
  • Natural light does not mean outside. It means daylight as the source, and the best of it is usually indoors, beside a large window, out of direct sun.

If you are choosing a photographer and want to test whether the vocabulary is being used to inform you or to impress you, how to choose a photographer gives you better questions to ask than any of these words.

Key Takeaways
  • Most of the vocabulary describes four things: how much light there is, how large and directional it is, how much is sharp, and what happens to the image afterward.
  • Size of light source, not brightness, decides whether shadows land soft or hard, which is what softbox, diffusion and hard light are all about.
  • Focal length and working distance together decide whether a face keeps its own proportions, which matters more than any camera specification.
  • RAW is an undeveloped capture, a JPEG is a finished photograph, and retouching by hand is a person making decisions that a filter cannot.
  • Resolution, dpi and megapixels answer one question between them, which is how large a picture can be printed before it softens.
  • You never need to use any of these words in a session, but knowing them lets you describe the look you want instead of hoping it appears.
Next Step

You do not need the vocabulary.

Nobody is going to test you on any of this. Come with two or three pictures whose look you like, and I will handle the language in the room. If it helps to hear a plain answer to one specific term before you book, ask me. Call (239) 319-6171 or send the form.

Book a Session Call (239) 319-6171
Put It to Work

Sessions this guide points to.

Good to Know

Questions, answered.

Which of these terms is actually worth knowing before a session?
Three. Aspect ratio, because it decides what gets cut off when a picture moves from one place to another. Resolution, because it decides how large a photograph can be printed. And retouching, because knowing it is done by hand tells you what to expect from a finished image. The rest you can ask about on the day, or ignore entirely, without any cost to the pictures.
How do I describe the look I want without using any of this?
Point at pictures. Two or three images you like will communicate more in a minute than an hour of adjectives, because a photographer can see immediately whether you are drawn to bright and clean or dark and moody, tight crops or open ones. Say what the photograph is for and who will see it, and bring the examples. That is a better brief than any technical language.
Is a bigger number always better with lenses?
No, in two directions at once. A longer focal length is kinder to a face than a short one, but past a point it flattens features and forces the camera absurdly far back. And a lower f-number is not automatically better either: wide open, the depth of field can be so shallow that the eyes are sharp while the ears are not. Both are choices, not scores.
What is the difference between a headshot and a three-quarter crop?
A headshot is your head and shoulders, sometimes to the chest, made so your face still reads at very small sizes. A three-quarter crop takes in roughly mid-thigh upward, which brings in posture, hands and clothing, and suits a website or a printed page more than a profile circle. Both can come out of one sitting: see the headshots page for what a sitting covers.
Where do these terms turn up after my session?
Mostly when you are choosing and using the pictures. Aspect ratio and resolution appear the moment you upload somewhere or send something to a printer, and color space appears the first time a print looks different from your screen. Working through choosing images from your gallery and then the complete guide to professional headshots puts each word where it belongs.
Does any of this change if the picture is made outside instead of in a studio?
The vocabulary is identical; only the control changes. Outside, the sun is your key light and you can move yourself but not it, so timing and position do the work a stand and a modifier do indoors. The trade is set out in a studio session against shooting outside.
Book Your Session

Your best headshot is one session away.

Tell me a little about what you have in mind and I will be in touch personally. Pricing is personal, so the best way to plan is a quick call.

Studio
5400 Yahl St, Naples FL

Prefer to talk? Call (239) 319-6171. I respond personally.